Lose your inhibitions (and clothes) in this upscale spa town. Baden-Baden, Germany
Baden-Baden is a famous spa town, on the northwest edge of the black forest. Old world luxury, formidable houses with gates topped with statues of horned stags, a casino, and world-class spas like Friedrichsbad and Caracalla. Not for the shy at Friedrichsbad – you have to swim in the pools nude with both genders on most days.
If you come here, be ready to step back a century in time, it feels very old-world and old-money. You get the feeling of being lost on the edge of the Black Forest. Although you’re geographically close to other cities – Strasbourg, Stuttgart you feel like you’re lost somewhere remote, and in another era.
1. Things to see
The Christmas market was the big draw and the spa offerings. There’s something totally enchanting about Baden-Baden that will keep luring you back. The old town starts at the base where the park and Trinkhall is and slowly climbs up the top of a steep hill until you reach the spas of Friedrichsbad and Caracalla. There are some beautiful views overlooking the city from up here if you can stand the climb.
In winter the restaurants put out gas flame heaters outside and provide thick wool blankets you can huddle up in while you eat dinner or have drinks. It’s all terribly romantic. Lowenbrau (about halfway up the hill) puts on a kitsch extravaganza of Christmas items, lights, and nativity scenes at its entrance, it looks like Santa vomited out every Xmas baubles imaginable. We didn’t like the menu but ate at Laterne across the alley and got all of the eye candy with a better selection.
Friedrichsbad is something special. A classic bathhouse in a 19th-century building featuring 17 different stations and numerous thermal pool set to different temperatures. People have been bathing here for 140+ years, who can argue with that. Each of the stations are numbered, but it’s not very clear – and that matters because when you’re buck naked walking through rooms where other nude people are submerged in the water you’d probably like to move to the next station as efficiently (quickly as humanly possible). Some of the stations include a steam room and a relaxation area where you just lay on single beds. Most of the bathhouse is all about the pools though. We didn’t encounter anything too hot, and there is at least one freezing dipping pool.
When you first enter the building you pay for the number of hours you’ll stay, then get a wrist band which will unlock your locker. The locker rooms are mixed gender and you just strip down and start your sauna experience. The only unnerving part is that the staff is fully clothed which puts you at a psychological disadvantage. However with all the bathers being nude that soon diminishes. I guess to the exact amount of confidence you have with your birthday suit.
It’s certainly an experience, and can be a lot of fun if you relax and enjoy it without being self conscious.
Christmas market display
On the train to Baden-Baden
Around town
At the top of the hill
Christmas
The fountain
More around town
Beautiful (but fragile) mercury glass ornaments
2. Nightlife
Some great bars in Baden-Baden, most of them tend to be upscale and if not a weekend or holiday they can be a little underpopulated. Max’s, Leo’s, Dukes. The one we missed that sounded good was Le Club Carambolage which has 50’s, 60’s and 70’s décor (indiepop and britpop).
Mulled wine and mojitos
3. Spend
People in Baden-Baden look like they have a little dosh to spend, most of the people we saw were a little older (not many backpackers here) and the shops were geared towards this demographic. Still, at the Christmas markets, there’s everything to buy; fresh gingerbread (it only keeps a single day), chestnuts, scarves, hats, hand-carved nativity figures and of course the beautiful glass ornaments.
4. Food
Le Bistro, down the hill towards the park served the best food we found. Huge portions, candlelit, dark at any time of the day or night, and they have an attached bar. The waitstaff was always overly friendly (for Germany) and we ate here as often as we could.
Market food and fruits
5. Getting Around
You can walk to every place you might want to go if you’re staying near the center. If not, use the taxi app, or there’s a taxi stand at the bottom of the hill. Taxi prices seemed to be the most expensive here of any place we visited in Germany, so beware.
6. Costs
Baden-Baden by its nature (like Monaco) is just expensive. But, if you get a good room rate and stick to the smaller eateries it’s affordable. During the holiday season when the Xmas market is in full swing you can eat both well and cheaply.
