etting a tourist visa for Ireland was more difficult than getting any other visa, even one for Schengen. They required more paperwork, the process was less transparent, there was less formality and friendliness. To find out if you’re approved or denied you had to download a PDF each week to see if your name is on it. This, along with multiple expensive trips to their Manila office. In the end, they made a small misspelling of a letter in my middle name and did not want to hand over my visa (the day before my flight). Luckily I was able to sign a waiver and off I went, much to their apparent annoyance.

“His soul swooned slowly as he heard the snow falling faintly through the universe and faintly falling, like the descent of their last end, upon all the living and the dead.” – James Joyce

1. Things to see

At this point, I understood I’d have to REALLY enjoy this trip to Ireland as I would probably never go through that struggle again to get another visa.

Ireland didn’t disappoint. If you like pubs next to pubs next to pubs, drinking in pubs, eating in pubs, cobblestone streets outside of pubs, old world charm, Celtic music, beautiful and otherworldly rural landscapes, you’ll love Dublin and Ireland.

It seemed a little difficult to break beyond the barrier with most Irish people, but that’s only to be expected within the heavily touristic areas where they see hoards of weekend tourists year after year until the tourists have become cattle.

Outside of the older district with those beautiful cobbled streets and red pubs the architecture changes, most roads are lined with two story brutalist structures. There seemed to be two different Dublins – the quaint and thriving party central for tourists and then the other Ireland which seemed more dreary.

James Joyce Center makes a great visit, just 5 euro for adults there are three stories of everything Joyce, from first editions behind glass, to period bedrooms and furniture and even a death mask. It’s in a fantastic house not far from the central area and is worth the short hike. Strangely, Joyce is not buried in Ireland – but Zurich (where he died).

You can also send postcards from inside the amazing Neoclassical General Post office. My travel partner introduce me to the idea of postcards, it took awhile to understand why anyone back home would want to see a short note from me when I could just instantly text or email them, or care about a picture that I could post to Facebook or Instagram – especially as you had to pay for the postcard and international stamps and then wait weeks – still, it was fun, and my grandparent enjoyed them.

After a day or two of drinking (and sobering back up), a great getaway is a day trip to the Cliffs of Moher. I expected the Cliffs would be the main attraction, but actually the stops along the way (at some smaller but more dramatic cliffs you can walk out on), and just the bleak and stark landscape along a rocky coast were the real appeal.

You can read about our trip to the Cliffs of Moher here.

On the way to the Cliffs of Moher

Temple Bar area is loaded with pubs

James Joyce Center, Post office, souvenirs, and bars

Trams

Kegs along street

Dublin life

Smaller cliffs (but still pretty large!)

2. Nightlife

Temple bar, Kehoes, John Mulligans, O’Donoghues were all some of the great pubs we visited. They’re all packed with people but sometimes it’s difficult to tell if it’s tourists or locals. Temple Bar is the exception. Often it’s standing room only, but if you’re patient you can secure a seat near the windows or in the back bars.

Often the bars had live music. I’m usually a fan of electronica but the Celtic music had its appeal and everyone was dancing and having fun. There was plenty of draft beer and cider, the bartenders were always friendly and it’s easy to end up drunk at the end of each night. A hotel close to the Temple Bar area.

One of the bars along the strip

Temple Bar Area

3. Spend

I’ve never been to a city with more souvenirs Temple Bar Trading was the epicenter of kitsch, with probably 5,000+ items on sale. From old tin signs, shot glasses, cards, magnets, underwear, scarves, salt and pepper shakers, hats, anything you could glue or embroider a green shamrock, Ireland or ‘Feek it’ on. Even so, It was difficult not to come away with a bag full of Irish stuff just… you’re in Ireland!

Everything’s for sale

4. Food

The food tended to be along the lines of fish and chips, shepherds pie, spaghetti, and bar food. Though we had some decent Thai food as well.

Comfort food

5. Getting Around

If you stay around the Temple Bar Area you should be able to manage by foot. There were buses and trams, but the exercise was good to work off the drinking.

6. Costs

Alcohol and food were pretty inexpensive, on par with Germany and other EU cities, the prices for souvenirs, etc is always pretty consistent. The hotels seemed a little pricier and you got less for the money – but then the Temple Bar area is geared solely for tourists.

7. Tips

It’s difficult to judge how much time you want to spend in Dublin because it depends greatly on how much beer you want to drink. The nightlife is fun, but it tends to be the same night (night after night).

Great pub scene, beautiful scenery outside of Dublin, hoards of tourists, and enough Guinness to swim through.