ne way you can arrive in Helsinki is a Viking ship (well, a rather large and standard cruise ship) which plies the waters from Stockholm to Helsinki. This beats air travel as you’re given a cozy cabin with a big window to gaze out at the passing islands and waterscapes, and a pool and hot tub on the deck to use – if you can get there first and jump in before other people monopolize it. The ship also has a large gift shop, a few big restaurants. It just offers a more interesting way to get here than via airport lines, security and getting hurtled through space. Strangely the Finnish had no Vikings, though there is evidence some few Vikings might have settled on Finnish shores.

If you don’t miss one outdoor art piece, make your way to ‘Bad Bad Boy’ – Standing 8.5 meters tall this nude (and abstract) child is permanently peeing. It was created in 2014 and used to sit right in the harbor (one assumes peeing into it) but it was moved to the cities West Harbor. You can’t help think they kind if hid it away, but it’s worth the trek just for the absurdity and how cute it is. 

1. Things to see

When we first arrived in the city, dropped off our bag in a prison converted into a high-end design hotel – we walked along the waterfront and found the cutest stuffed bunny ever. Although I collect bunnies, I left this one where it was, thinking maybe some child dropped it and would return for it. It was a good omen.

The old part of town was full of fairy tale looking residential buildings in ocher and muted orange colors, just walking through the streets was visual eye-candy – looking at the architecture while keeping a lookout for the green and yellow streetcars which appear and disappear suddenly.

On the waterfront, there’s a complex of open-air swimming heated pools (Allas Sea Pools), at least one of which is filtered water directly from the Baltic sea. These swimming pools seem to float on a deck out in the water, very aesthetic. They graciously let us in for free to look around, but we didn’t have our swimsuits with us; Who would expect outdoor spas in the middle of town? You can sit on the upper deck and order beer and food and seems to a popular meeting place for Finns. The beer, of course, was delicious.

The town is full of what you would expect – fountains with seals spitting water, design cafes with tables and chair spilling out in the street, green statues of giant formidable men, a huge central station, at least one main shopping street where Finns could get their piece of upscale international luxury brands and of course love-locks on nearly every bridge railing we could find.

Also, we found a park with some live music and just sat down with some ice cream and relaxed for part of an afternoon.

It’s always good to break up a trip and force yourself outside of your comfort zone. In this case, we did an overnight solo kayak trip and camped on an abandoned island. You can read about that adventure here.

When we returned from camping, we quickly changed hotels after our first night schooled us that they only had central air-conditioning that couldn’t be controlled from individual rooms, and Helsinki was in the midst of a serious heat wave. The windows didn’t even open, you just got to lay in an oven. Our new hotel had a game room with chess sets, 70’s themed ball chairs and cold air and free snack food on offer!

Leaving Helsinki is as easy as getting there, just head to the boat pier and catch a ferry to Tallinn, Estonia. It’s just an hour ride and you’re in whole nother century!

Unpacking the kayak on the island

Street art

Lounging around

Our converted prison hotel was hot!

View from the Viking Line

Around town and the swimming pools

Bad Boy!

2. Nightlife

This time we did chase some bars listed in Lonely Planet, often it’s better to ignore their suggestions as they’re over-rated as the next-new thing when they’re closer to the last-old-thing, but this time they got it right. After a bit of hunting, we found ‘Liberty or Death’ a smallish bar serving up custom cocktails in the early evening. Relaxed upscale ambiance meets steampunk and four or five cocktails later we were feeling good.

Another few bars and a club were also thrown into the mix. DJ’s drinks and all the expected debauchery.

Liberty or Death and other venues serving up yummy cocktails

3. Spend

Just the usual suspects really, when you’re traveling through many countries in Europe you quickly realize you only need so many t-shirts, sunglasses, and other travel kitsch (probably mass-produced in China). You end up just spending on the essentials (and luxuries) of good food, drinks, and experiences.

4. Food

We found plenty of bespoke eateries, but can’t really name any of them as they weren’t on a list, if you want search Lonely Planet or Trip Advisor for recommendations, however – again, I think it’s often better to ignore these sources (unless you’re looking for a really upscale dinner) and just go wherever you see loads of locals eating.

Foods! Everyday foods!

5. Getting Around

There’s a complex tram system that runs through Helsinki (I say ‘complex because it appeared complex to me), and of course taxis. However, for our stay, we only used our feet. The exception being when we went kayaking – we took a bus. What we found is that once you’re out in the middle of no-where (where the kayaking center was located) transportation options quickly diminish. We were unable to find anyone to help us call a taxi so ended up walking several miles to the river.

6. Costs

On par with other Nordic and Scandinavian countries, higher than their southern neighbors but nothing to break the bank as Norway did.

7. Tips

Initially, you might think 4 or 5 days might be too long to spend in Helsinki, but I think a few extra days in this city would help open up your opportunities and understanding of the city.

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No reindeer, no Santa Claus and if the Finnish are silent we sure heard a lot of people having fun in public meeting spots and bars. I didn’t know much about Finland before I came, and honestly, think if I wanted to learn more it would take many more return trips. A few days is just enough to get a quick taste.