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A guide to Junk ships, skyscrapers and the bespoke bars of Hong Kong

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veryone says you ‘must’ ride the Star Ferry, and so I did, and indeed it’s a must-do. So, my opening advice is that you MUST ride the Star Ferry. It’s inexpensive, a nice ride across the bay and offers ample opportunities to photograph Hong Kong – which is just about 1,500 skyscrapers. When you’re far away from Hong Kong you’ll get pictures of lots of water and small skyscrapers – when you’re close to the pier you’ll have photos of lots of big skyscrapers – that’s Hong Kong.

I took a free walking tour and much was made about the different architecture of the skyscrapers, stories were told about which way they faced, and who built what, but surprisingly there were very few structures that stood out, nothing truly modern or stunning. So they have a nightly light show that lights up the skyscrapers and I guess help wow visitors that might otherwise be nonplussed – other than just how crowded and close the skyscrapers have been placed together.

1. Things to see

I think my favorite part of Hong Kong was my hotel room. No, not the part where the bathroom was open to the bedroom so that every little sound you made was heard all across the room. Nor the concierge staff that pretended not to know English whenever I needed assistance – but I loved the blinds. The room had two walls of windows and with just a little button I could open and shut all the blinds at once. It was mesmerizing, addictive. Hong Kong, hotel room, Hong Kong, hotel room. I’m a simple girl who likes simple pleasures. 😉

Often the other things you like best about a city are the places not on your list. Yes, I hit the night market, the malls, the shopping roads, the food areas – but just happening into a restaurant called Fishsteria (111 Queens Rd East). I returned every night for their signature cocktails and delicious (but pricey) food.

I also checked out the Art Galleries at Sai Ying Pun. This is a large complex of small pop-up shops were artisans offer their goods for eye-watering prices. I bought a beautiful dress for an outrageous price, that I’ve never worn. Lol. Still, it’s worth going just to see all the things on offer.

Many tourists opt for a night cruise through the harbor. I tried this too with a company called Aqua Luna. If you get a good deck chair it’s a nice 90 min sailing though the harbor while you desperately try to get un-blurry photos in the very dim light. Eventually, you just give up and enjoy the view. You can buy beer and cocktails onboard.

At the temple

Hotel Indigo with the automatic blinds!

Double-deck trams, and other sights around HK

Street art near Sai Ying Pun

On the night cruise, where you can see the light-show and take (many) blurry photos

Street art and HK life

Temple candles

2. Nightlife

Nightlife is centered around Lan Kwai Fong and Soho. There are a LOT of bankers in HK and this is where they come out at night to play. They play hard. There are lots of freelancers from mainland China, Philippines, Thailand, and everybody seems to love to party. I checked out a few clubs in these districts and they were all low lit, big bar, extravaganzas. One had a live band, the other a DJ.

I also went to ‘Sinful Circus at Ophelia’ – we walked past this place twice before finally finding the entrance. A dark upstairs bar that had a circus and naughty theme with cocktails and plenty of dark nooks to drink in. Nothing wild was going on – just scantily clad staff members posing under multi-colored lights as the night went on.

I didn’t stay long enough in HK to understand the nightlife, but what I saw was expensive but fun.

Sinful Circus at Ophelia

Best cocktails … ever!

NIghtlife and drinks

The amazing ‘Lake of Como’ drink, sitting on a bed of black seaweed.

3. Spend

It seems that most of Hong Kong like to spend their money on Teslas. Because every 5th car when I was there seemed to be one. Our hotel was right across from a Tesla showroom and the parking lot outside the lobby was stacked with them. Other than that – well, everything is for sale. Clothes, shoes, you can hop across the border to Shenzhen for even better deals. But for me, HK was more just a place to wander around. It was the first country I’d been to outside of the Philippines so that always holds a special place in your heart. My goal was to travel even further afield but you need stamps in your passport and Hong Kong seemed like the logical first step for a wider ambition.

Knockoff purses, trinkets and magnets.. Always magnets!

4. Food

I stayed in a rather upscale area, so there wasn’t much street food. Mostly nice restaurants with warm yellow lights. Once I found Fishsteria I didn’t go tot many other places. We tried a Mexican place in Wan Chai and an upscale Spanish tapas bar where they cut slices of meat right off the flank of the animal which was rather more nauseating than appetizing. Something about seeing the hoof of the animal you’re eating… (sigh).

All different kinds of foods. The first time I’ve tried spanish tapas.

5. Getting Around

Mainly I just walked. Or took taxis. I couldn’t say if there’s another way. Maybe the people of Hong Kong take helicopters or flying cars? Most things were within walking distance (if you don’t mind a hike) and if you need to cross the harbor your only choice is a taxi or ferry.

6. Costs

I guess if you stay in an upscale hotel you should expect upscale prices. The same with where you eat, and shop. Hong Kong wasn’t that expensive, but a shorter stay would make your pocket cry less than a longer one.

7. Tips

Not too many tips as I’m a Hong Kong newbie. Just to walk the streets and see as much as you can. Try places that aren’t in the guide books, and eat wherever you see a lot of other locals eating.

Taxis to cross the harbor can get expensive, it's better to plan all your events on either side and check them off in one -go. Making multiple trips per day isn't the best use of time/money.

The night harbor cruise was fun, but you can get much of the same experience from the almost free Star Ferry. If you only have time for one I'd go for the Ferry over the night cruise.

Don't believe the guide books all the time. They have to issue new guides periodically so they need to find new 'hidden treasures' to talk about. More often than not you'll spend an hour trying to track down some hidden gym only to find it's closed or worse - it's average.

Hong Kong is big and humans are small. Walking through Hong Kong only reminds you of this fact. After a few days walking the streets, you end up feeling like clothed ants scurrying around from one destination to the next frantically avoiding that huge footfall which might come at any minute.

Reviews
3.56
Sights
Overall Fun
Nightlife
Architecture
Photogenic
Hotel Stay
Food
People
Shopping
Summary
Bright lights, big city, big fun, big bucks.

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