ost everyone gets into Phnom Penh the same way. From an airport located on the outskirts – down a busy and choked 30 min roadway into the heart of the city. Sitting in the back of your taxi offers ample opportunity to stare out the window and reflect on the countries relentless progress.

More motorbikes and fewer bicycles, more cars and fewer motorbikes, more SUVs and fewer cars. Printed movie signs have replaced the hand-painted signs, a few new skyscrapers with mostly empty malls full of international upscale brands and a host of new housing complexes that seem to sit empty. Someone is pumping money in Phnom Penh, but I’m not sure why or to what end. 

1. Things to see

Where a few years ago people were happy to carry their things in a small bag, now they need name brand purses, not just any phone will do now – they want iPhones – the brand invasion has begun in earnest and now everyone is all too aware of what they don’t have and feel they’re missing out on.

Not too long ago there were no ATMs, rampant corruption, and anything goes. Today this is long gone with ATMS lighting up streets almost as much as the street lamps. About the worst you’ll face is haggling with your motodop (or carriage) driver over a price for the night or the occasional thieves on bikes that will rip your iPhone right out of your hand as they speed by on their motorbike.

Most of the tourist area lay along the Tonle Sap river – a wide brown slow-moving lake-like monster. There are an endless string of bars, restaurants, hotels, and guesthouses to trip through as you walk down Riverside. A few beggars on the street, even vendors still selling knockoff copies of Lonely Planet Cambodia guides – unaware of Kindles and iPads.

There’s not a lot to ‘do’ in Phnom Penh but there is a lot to experience. Much of it just lazing in a chair sipping a drink or eating lunch and watching the world walk by. Phnom Penh still moves at a slower pace than it’s neighbors, days are hot, dusty, and seemingly more real.

You can go visit the horrors of Pol Pot at the S21 prison complex (death house), take one of many cruises down the river, view the Royal Palace or just chill on Sisowath Quay.

The rundown colonial architecture is part of the appeal of Phnom Penh, faded glory. That pale yellow paint is everywhere (and flaking everywhere as well).

Central Market

Breakfast at Central Mansion

Tuk-Tuks, balloons and fruit stand

French yummies

Tonle Sap river seen from the balcony of FCC

Colonial architecture with balconies

Architecture and street life

Oscars; one of the best places to eat / drink on the river front.

2. Nightlife

Adventures in the night are plentiful, with more bars coming on the scene each year. Most of the bars are located down the side streets leading off of Sisowath Quay and tend to have working girls in them. All good fun to have a few drinks, play some billiards and talk to the staff.

There are also some nightclubs. The Heart of Darkness might be the most famous (or just the oldest), but I liked Pontoon the best. After being fully body-checked by two serious-looking guards you’re let into a club with two sides. The right side plays annoying top 40 electronica (and is where the majority of people spend their time). The left side has special DJs and is much more laid back. There’s plenty of food on offer and the drinks are downright affordable. A tip to the staff goes a long way.

There are several good brands of beer available in Cambodia including Beer Lao and Angkor and Anchor. A big bottle of Angkor is dry and will last you a long time.

Metro and Pontoon

3. Spend

Near the palace, on Riverside there are several silver shops that sell boxes in the shape of every animal imaginable, from roosters, dragons, rabbits, monkeys, etc. These make good gifts if you can haggle them down, some of them don’t budge anymore.

Stonework is also on offer. Again, near the temple is a street where you can get busts and figures. Many will box and ship to your home country and beat the prices you’ll find at the airport.

Another suggestion is to pick up some Kampot Pepper, I got enough to last several years and the flavor is intense. Kampot is a region in Cambodia, I’ve tried to grow it here in the Philippines but have never managed to get a proper crop.

You can also buy all the typical souvenir things – sarongs, magnets, keychains, sunglasses, resin copies of Angkor Wat and Bayon faces.

4. Food

I freely admit that when in Phenom Penh I usually stick to foreign restaurants. Places like Oscars (french) and Riverside are just so good… prawns dipped in coconut flakes with Kampot pepper, croque monsiure with fantastic cocktails, homemade chips… All in a great ambiance with good electronica playing make for a great evening out.

However French food is abundant, great croissants, baguettes, and other confections are not to be missed.

Food from the cafe

5. Getting Around

Motorcycle taxis are called Motodops, they can still be found riding old Daliem bikes with long seats for their passengers. They invariably wear nice long sleeve shirts and a ballcap. Beware though, that not all motodop drivers have an understanding of where you’re asking to go – but 100% of them will nod their head vigorously yes – then spend a half-hour driving around at random until you catch on.

The younger drivers tend to know most of the places foreigners want to go, but they will ask for higher prices.

You can also travel by tuk-tuk (Remork-moto). You’ll need to negotiate per ride or you can rent them for the whole evening. Prices will vary driver to driver, sometimes you can get someone for a night for $10 and others will ask for $30. It just depends.

6. Costs

Phnom Penh is still remarkably cheap simply because there isn’t much to do other than drink, eat, and repeat. The hotel will probably be your largest cost. I always stay at Central Mansion which has modern apartments for rent with two pools and a great indoor gym. Not to mention a truly fantastic French café downstairs. You can pick up baguette and cheese, or eclairs and pastries for snacks. Get a huge omelet for breakfast with a cold beer.

7. Tips

For the most part the Khmer people are extremely kind and humble. You very rarely will run into rudeness or problems that you didn’t help create yourself. Enjoy the laid back attitude and remember to respect the local economy. Just because something seems cheap don’t overpay and ruin it for everyone.

If you want to see Thailand before it became Thailand, head here, but hurry -things are changing quickly.