arajuku is still a funky little area to meander through, trying to spot and photograph the kids dressed up cosplay kids and dark gothic lolitas. It’s a weird mashup of Comicon, Halloween, and Camden Square vibe. The focus is Takeshita Street (Takeshita Dori) which is chock-full of fashion shops, trendy boutiques, vintage clothes and accessories geared towards fashion-forward teens. It is also famous as the birthplace of the kawaii culture.

Everyday is a good day to play dress-up in Harajuku.

But, where did all the cosplay go?

The two days I went it was nearly as difficult to catch someone in full gear as it was to find a real geisha in Kyoto. Maybe I was just unlucky, there the wrong day (I think Sundays are best), or wrong time of day. Or maybe, it’s not as fashionable as it once was, or the hangout area has moved – but it’s still fun to try your luck. Go during the day, after dark, you’ll have more luck trying to find a giraffe in downtown Manila.

Where once you might find groups of dressed up teens sulkily standing around in groups looking glam, there are just a few hurrying through the street, and even less willing to pose. Instead, you have a few stores that dress their staff up and stand them on the street trying to entice you in. One surprisingly motioned no photos! While others just modestly turned their face away. The days I went it was no longer the catwalk that I heard it used to be – with kids proudly parading in their cosplay (costume play) best.

But what it is now, isn’t bad – it’s still a fun street packed full of clothing and quirky shops. It’s interesting to watch middle-aged Japanese moms their with their adolescent daughters picking out the most bizarre clothes. While the mothers are usually dressed subdued, they seem happy to buy their daughters the most fabulously weird ensembles.

A cute group of rabbit girls

Dressed couple walking down Harajuku side streets

What a look! 😉

Light bondage?

The start of the street – across from the station.

S h o p p i n g !

Shopping is not just for the Japanese, I left with a few bags full of goodies and I would have bought far more if my suitcase would have allowed it. Unfortunately, I have a very stingy suitcase, when I start having to sit on it to zip it – it gets very unhappy. (sigh) In almost every shop I went inside there were multiple cool things I wanted but had no room for.

Shopping will always win… your pocket will lose.

Sticker art heaven

Harajuku is also a goldmine of sticker art posted – well, just about anywhere a sticker can be stuck. The vinyl ones can last many years so it’s like a patchwork both of artists and time. There’s also a bunch of places for sweet snacks – glazed strawberries on sticks, many crepe shops selling confection overload and fast food shops.

Tattoo stickers?

The shrine-around-the-block

Starting at Harajuku station and running a few blocks until you run into the coffee shop on the corner it’s one big shopping mecca. If you explore the side streets you can find some curiosity and vintage shops but they eventually fizzle out. If you walk just to the west of the station you’ll find a square where groups sometimes gather and is also the entrance to the Meiji Jingu which is one of Tokyo’s major shrine, is located in the large green oasis shared with Yoyogi Park. Beware the gates to the shrine close promptly at 5 pm, so don’t sleep too late.

Pink candy

Chatting on the street

How long do you think it takes her to get dressed in the mornings?

Come play dress up for a day?

Bring your camera

The street and fashion culture started largely after the war when expats moved into this area and import shops began to open to serve their needs. Japanese teens curious about outside cultures began to flock to this area and new international trends. The heart of Harajuku is alive and well with endless small vintage shops that peek out of no-where down small lanes.

If you’re there to photograph and hang out there are a few strategic places you can sit and try to be as unobtrusive as possible. One is located just across the station at the start of Takeshita Dori (looking down the street), you can capture some good face-on photos. The other is about halfway down the street on the right, a place you can sit and snack or have a drink, but you’ll only get side views of people quickly passing.

Walking the runway

Shopping around?

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The crow hanging over Harajuku

Apparently, every very two months there’s a big street party – the Harajuku Fashion walk – where a few hundred people meet up to stroll through the streets showing off their best edgy fashion. I would love to go again and experience it.