The haunting beauty of speakeasy’s, temples and Geisha culture – Kyoto Japan
yoto’s history is long, rich and lucky. As one of the cities targeted for the atomic bomb, it was removed from the list only because the American Secretary of War had spent his honeymoon here and wanted to preserve it. The architecture is beautiful and they take great pains to keep the city sort of timeless – scraping off modern street art, stickers and covering up graffiti and murals.
Hello Kyoto 😉
“If Tokyo is all about looking up—taking in flashing billboards, buzzing pachinko halls, and rowdy second-floor cocktail bars—Kyoto is all about looking in. It’s a bit quieter and much smaller, but what Kyoto lacks in size, it makes up for in perfection. There are few places in the world with such intense dedication to craft, beauty, and history.” – Architectural Digest
Streets with no powerlines make it feel like you’ve slipped back in time
Gion over the river, seen through willow trees
Someone wishes for a girlfriend a the temple – cute!
Making a delivery in Kyoto
Vintage looking post box
Authenticity in the face of over-tourism
Kyoto was far more …. Kyoto than I expected, especially Gion. It wasn’t a re-creation or a theater set. It wasn’t 90% full of tourists like Venice, it was really: old-school Kyoto – one of the most stunning cities to photograph, as much of that beauty is in the intricate architectural details.
Where else can you see such bright and fun colors?
View into vintage looking conductors car – still in use today
Every girl should be a geisha for a day…
Kyoto is Geisha. Although other cities have Geisha, Gion is home. However, spotting one on the street is more difficult than you might think. Before coming here I thought all Geisha are white-faced and extravagantly dressed in Kimono, but you won’t often see Geisha in white makeup – that’s reserved for Maiko (young apprentice Geisha). They get full make-up and often wear brighter colors, red lipstick, and elaborate hairstyles. The full Geisha wears a much simpler kimono and can most often be seen hurrying to a destination with a simple clutch purse in hand. Typically you won’t see them until the evening as they head to appointments or later in the night when they return home.
What you will see (almost everywhere) are the daytime-Geisha – I called them ‘cotton geisha’; travelers that rent and dress up in much cheaper kimono and a simple sash Obi and have to have their costumes back to shops by 7:30 pm or so. They make for some exciting photo opportunities and I think it fulfills the tourists’ need to photograph real Geisha and also a few fun steps in Geisha’s shoes as you take your selfies an pose for other travelers. It’s fun to dress up, walk around with friends and get some attention.
How to spot a real or fake geisha
On my second day in Kyoto, I got surprised by a full Geisha Makeover by AYA. I went for the Maiko look (full makeup) if you’re interested read my review as we were able to get a behind the scenes look and photograph the experience.
Professional photo from AYA Geisha Experience
Happy to pose, but maybe a little embarassed
One of the few authentic Geisha I saw on the street – hurrying off somewhere
You WANT the picture so badly – because you love Geisha, but you also don’t want to make them feel like animals in a zoo.
These should fit!
Highlights
I spent almost all of my time in Kyoto within Gion, only venturing out to see some temples. There’s enough to do in Gion to keep you busy with food, drinking, and sightseeing.
- Yasaka Shrine – which at the heart of Gion and offers up food, souvenirs and great pictures at sunset
- Pontocho Alley – with hundreds of restaurants along the Komogawa River, and even more downside streets
- Nishiki Market – full of food, crafts, and shopping
- Higashiyama District – one street that has been kept just like it was 100 years ago, they’ve buried the telephone and communications lines so it feels more authentic to walk down the road.
Orange gates from the outside
Speakeasy delights at L’Escamoteur (the foam is alcohol)
My Ryokan with it’s own private garden – too perfect
Temples
There are over a dozen temples that were on my list. But the nightlife got me. Late-night drinking, sometimes until 3 am left me sleeping half the day (and recovering), so I was only able to visit a handful of temples this trip.
Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine – This is probably the most popular. If you saw Memoirs of Geisha – and who come to Kyoto hasn’t seen it – this is the one with all the orange gates the little girl runs through. It’s just as stunning in real life, maybe more so. If you want the perfect picture, just take your time – let people walk by, and wait – no matter how crowded it is there is always a break in the action.
Inside the vivid gates – you’re not supposed to touch them
I’m not sure what the little gates are for – good luck? Or maybe they’re just waiting to grow up!
Looks like Tokyo girls
Aesthetic in Japanese, but imagine how garish if these were family names written in English
Water at the temple
Another Geisha-for-a-day thankfully poses
Kyoto Shopping
When I travel I only bring a small carry-on suitcase, this limits what I can buy, (or usually means the wardrobe gets thrown away piece by piece as I add new cuter clothes along the way). It also limits me to packable souvenirs. A bottle of snake alcohol and a full Kimoni aren’t going to make the cut. Instead, I stick to smaller items – magnets for my growing magnet collection, postcards, little art prints, and trinkets.
The reason I mention this is that it was nearly impossible to find souvenirs in Kyoto – wandering up and down streets there was only one store central to Gion and it was closed! Then it occurred to me that if you want things that tourists want, go to where tourists go – sure enough the temples are overflowing with vendors of all the travel kitsch your heart could ever desire. You might even get more excited by the myriad of choices than the temples themselves.
Beautiful gown store in Kyoto
When in doubt, buy more magnets! (sigh)
This is Japan, so of course the culture of cute is everywhere…
Masks for sale in the temple area
Speakeasy culture
In Europe, I found several bars with no names or hidden signs that opened into little studios that served up whatever you asked for from the mixologist. No menu, no prices. I have a feeling this is a trend in America and Europe, but it was new to me.
Japan took this to a new level with some of the best bars I’ve ever visited. A small bar called L’Escamoteur (magician) easily became my favorite bar on the planet. Just as Kyoto rocketed to one of my top 3 favorite cities.
A speakeays called Bee’s Knees is hidden behind this bookstore entrance
Cherry blossom infused smoke under a bell jar finishes off your drink and adds a little mystery
Golden pineapples – are we in Ibiza?
The other-worldly bartenders at L’Escamoteur (the Magician)
The magician himself – at work
7. Tips
If you’ve made it to Kyoto you’ve probs got Osaka on your hit-list as well. Since they’re only 30 min apart by train, my recommendation is to keep your trip flexible (if possible) – I loved my time in Kyoto but Osaka – not so much. I would have been grateful for another few nights in Gion.
