ngkor Historical Park is a sprawling complex of religious ruins first built in the 12th century. It started as a Hindu temple dedicated to the blue-skinned Vishnu and migrated to Buddhist over time. There are many separate sites to put on your list, a few ultra-famous and some of them laying still in almost ruins.

In the western world, the compass was just discovered, the first medieval universities were established, Henry I was crowned king of England, the mechanical clock, gunpowder was invented – eyeglasses were still a century off. Yet here is this magnificent complex stretching across 400 acres with insanely detailed stonework.  

1. Things to see

Having come from a poor country, the idea of going to see ruins of another one was a bit of a mystery to me. In the Philippines the majority of people are Catholic and there’s not a lot of time spent in school teaching about Hinduism or Buddhism. When you first arrive at the complex it takes a while (and willingness) to research and understand the history and magnitude of what the Khmer people built.

Of course, the other part of a visit to Angkor wat is the sheer beauty of it. The great Banyan trees that have over centuries wrapped their roots and tendrils through the ruins and in some cases support the structures.

When visiting the complex you have to pay a hefty fee, I got a three-day pass, you get a ticket with your photo on it that allows you to come and go each day. It’s good to have a plan of the temples you want to visit and then find a driver for the day. Before, you could just rent a motorbike and ride around at will – but now you need a driver. This helps anyway if you go during a hot season – the car is a good place to cool off between temples.

The three main temples are Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm (the one with the Banyan tree growing out of it), and Bayon (the temple with the four faces on a block).

When I went, my driver assured me it was normal to drop me off at the entrance to Ta Prohm at 5:15 am to await the sunrise. I took a long lonely walk in the dark with only my camera flashlight past signs saying the park opens at 7 am or something. I was the only one at Ta Prohm for over an hour until a park guard came along and angrily yelled for me to get the hell out. 😉

It was an amazing but accidental encounter with such a beautiful temple, being alone in the jungle and watching the sun slowly rise.

Angkor Wat itself (I’ve been told) is best seen in the rainy season when the motes are full – I was there in the dry season and it’s still impressive enough. Sadly, over many years people have stolen many of the intricate carvings (sometimes just chipped the heads out of the stone and ruined some of the facades.

There is no end to the photos you can take at this complex or the feeling of being an explorer even though so many have been here before you. It still feels like the jungle rules.

Carvings

Angkor Wat at sunrise

Statues, pool, and Siem Reap

Little monkey

Some children in Angkor

One of the many faces in Bayon

A few more views of Angkor

Erosion of the Apsara

2. Nightlife

Nightlife is centered in Siam Reap, a town 5km south of the complex. Everything you would expect to find is there – bars for backpackers, upscale hotels, tour companies, souvenir vendors and all the rest.

Pub Street is good for a drink

3. Spend

Once you’re in the complex there’s very little to buy. Just drinks, water, and maybe a snack. Many children are trying to sell you simple flutes, postcards or other items – but those can be bought in town and you don’t support the child labor.

4. Food

In Siam Reap, there are lots of options for food, from proper upscale restaurants to small hole in the wall eateries. Pizza, French Food, Mexican, Thai, Indian – it’s all here. We opted one night for Indian and was very good.

Big plates at Hard Rock Cafe

5. Getting Around

Flying from Phnom Penh to Siam Reap is by far the easiest solution. However, I took the bus, which was a longer and less comfortable option – luckily the bus was nearly empty so I could stretch out on multiple seats.

6. Costs

The primary cost will be your hotel, your driver, and park access. When I went the cost for a 3-day pass was under 70USD, that’s pretty good to be able to access all the temples.

7. Tips

The biggest tip for Angkor is probably just to bring sunscreen, a hat and plenty of water. You’ll need all three.

Without a proper guide, you’ll miss all the intricacies of the carvings and purpose of the temples. But the ruins themselves are so majestic and the trees growing through the stones lend enough grandeur to make it worth your while.