crossed at the southern border from Israel at the town of Eliat, and without a visa. I didn’t realize until the night before that Filipinos unfortunately are on a restricted list – no visa-on-arrival (VOA) for us. Huhu. I took the chance anyway, mostly cause I was close (Jerusalem), my weird (and pricey) bubble hotel was already paid for, and I wanted to see Petra so damn bad.

I got lucky, an extremely kind Jordanian official eventually let me in and even gave me the VOA for free. I suspect the only thing that saved my ass from a bus ride back to Jerusalem was that I had an active multiple-entry Schengen, an active UK, and a passport full of stamps. Or maybe it was my big doe eyes looking so heartbroken. Either way, I got lucky and wouldn’t encourage any Filipino to attempt the crossing without the Jordanian visa unless you’re already holding a USA visa.

Petra’s not the easiest to get to. It’s worth the effort.

I made it

Well, almost – once across the border you’ll face the taxi mafia. Asking 70 JOD (USD 100 / PHP 4,800) for the ride to Petra, there’s no good way around it. Even your Petra hotel will ask about the same (or more) as their driver has to make the 2hr long ride there empty, and pick you up. A slightly cheaper option is to make your way to the town across the border and then find a taxi. I’ve heard you can get one in the USD 30 – $40 range).

In the end, I just paid the mafia fare, and off I went.

The drive to Petra is stunning, going uphill you reach the summit at 1,350 meters In the clouds with beautiful views down the surrounding mountains, you pass through several small villages strewn with cute donkeys that chill out in the streets as if they own them.

The Treasury, seen from overlook

One of the many cute donkeys inside Petra

First glimpse of the Treasury & the high cliff walls

Jump for joy

Around Petra in the morning

Yup, I really am holding up Petra

Welcome to Instagram Hotel

So many hotels and even destinations have profited from Instagram, the Petra Bubble Luxhotel included. The moment you see the space-age bubbles floating above the desert it goes on your bucket list. A spendy hotel, especially if you’ve already been on the road for 3 months but it’s a feast of eye candy when you finally get there. Thrilling.

To offset the expense, I spent the first two nights in aa more affordable hotel directly across from the park’s entrance. It was a fraction of the cost and even had a pool. This is the way to go if you’ll be hitting the park early / late. It’s also the only area around Petra where you can get some booze. There are officially three bars in town )The Cave Bar, Kilkenny Bar, and Al Maqa’ad Bar) The Cave Bar – set in a 2,000 yr old cave was my fave. Cocktails, draft beer, and snacks. A pint will set you back about 6 JOD (USD 8 / PHP 411) – so not too crazy.

Life is beautiful when on the road

Hanging out in the Bubble Hotel

Snow in the desert?

I started this trip in November – in Northern Europe, fully expecting to see snow – last year at the same time I was sledding in Bergun and ice skating in St. Moritz Switzerland.. But, nope… No snow in Faroe Islands, Iceland, England, nothing in Scotland, Jersey, Guernsey, freezing in Cardiff and London – but no snow either… None in Paris over Christmas (sigh). I threw away some of my cold-weather gear on the way to the middle east… It’s the frigging desert = hot, right?

Nooooooo. So very wrong. Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, Bethlehem all were at times excruciatingly cold in January. But it wasn’t until I hit Jordan and it finally snowed!

My first night in the park, and it started snowing just before I got to the treasury, hard bits of hail, then more snow on my way out., The bubble hotel – high up in the mountains had snow everywhere. Amazing.

Finally, after three months on the road: SNOW

10 Tips for visiting Petra

1. It’s not cheap

 A visit to Petra is also not easy so on the pocket, a two-day pass will cost you JOD 55 (USD 78 / PHP 3,700), and if you want to see the night candle show (you do) it’s another JOD 17. Plus the visa, taxi to Petra, hotel, animal rides, taxi back, exit fees… It adds up.

Surreal landscapes

2. Sleep in

A lot of advice out there to get up early and get to the park by 6 am, I didn’t understand that recommendation – most of the walk is enclosed by a 100-meter tall narrow cavern so the light doesn’t change that much. I started the first day at 10 am, and it was perfect. Get up for those sunrise photos then crawl back in the bed, beneath the thick comforters and get some more sleep!

Cold mornings can wait

3. Have strong legs

A certain level of fitness is helpful. You don’t have to run Iron Man competitions, but be prepared to walk and climb. Getting to the Treasury is a gentle downhill trek on a mostly smooth but cobbled route. However, It seems a lot steeper on the way back up – at least longer. It will take a full 2 hours to reach the treasury and come back. If you’re afraid of enclosed spaces the walls can seemingly start to close in on you the further you get.

A two hour round trip

4. Avoid the horse and camel scam

A horse ride to the Siq (the first stop) is included in your ticket. But skip it. Once you’re on the horse you’ll need help getting off, and the guy leading the horse won’t let you off unless you pony (pun intended) up some dosh. It’s an easy 10 min walk downhill.

Beware, at least on the way in.

5. Ride on the way out

Skip all animals; the horses, horse carriages, donkeys, and camels on your way into Petra. Instead – save them for the way back – when you’re tired and have had time to take the photographs you want and are just looking forward to a beer, dinner or bed.

My beautiful Petra camel with long tongue and bad breath

6. Animals, a way of life

The web bemoans the use of the animals as they claim cruelty by the locals. It’s true, I saw some blood on a horse’s leg, and some of the animals seemed tired, but then what do I know about animals other than cats? The locals earn their living from these animals, it doesn’t seem logical they would seriously abuse them – if their donkey dies, they’re out of business. I ended up giving my apple from my lunch to a donkey and he said thank you and gave me a big smile.

One of the man camel owners around the park

7. You can’t go into the Treasury

The Treasury, it’s pretty incomprehensible that this was ‘lost’ in the desert for 2,000 years. While you can’t go inside it’s beautiful from the outside, Incredibly detailed carvings and it’s just huge. I think the best bit is getting there, walking through all the soft curved sandstone caverns, looking at all the colored striations in the rockface, stopping for photos, and admiring the water system they set up thousands of years ago.

Climb the cliff face for the best views

8. Read some history

to know what you’re seeing: I didn’t read much until after I came back – all along the rock you’ll spot caves and bits of carvings – the caves originally were tombs, but now. Make shelters for donkeys or their keepers – some of which seem to live there. An empty cave makes a good place to stop and have a picnic.

Hanging out in a cave 😉

9. Skip the picnic

Speaking of picnics – skip the one offered by your hotel. Most will charge only around JOD 6 or 7. It does sound romantic, but the box lunch is heavy to lug around and when you finally open it you’ll find small water, juice, an apple, a cucumber (of all things), and a tomato. The two sandwiches (cheese and mystery meat) are skimpy. Better to buy something along the route if you get hungry, or just wait till you get back from your day out and feast.

Lunch at the hotel is better, and doesn’t lead to people leaving trash in the historical park

10. See Petra by Night

Only happens on Mon, Wed, and Thur. This is a must-see. They line the entire way to the treasury with candles in paper bags. The walk is calm, and silent except for the ethereal music that’s played in route. Most people are respectful and keep their torches and camera phone lights off. Your eyes quickly adjust to the dark. Because I’d already trekked the route in the day, I knew what to expect, but I can’t help think how much more exciting it would be to take the night tour the first evening you arrive. Every curve or turn you expect to see the Treasury, but it always eludes you – until there it is. It’s lit up with a colored light show that changes as you watch, and right before closing (9:30 pm or so) a Beduane comes out and gives a speech about their culture. There are straw mats to sit on and take the light show, all the candles, and the beautiful spectacle.

This is what you came for…

The animals at Petra

Hiking back from Petra at Night – there are no regular carriages, nor horses or camels. However, my partner (who was tired) managed to find a donkey for JOD 15 and was lucky enough to get a ride back up to the top of the entrance. I enjoyed all the animals at Petra. In a daytime visit, you can take all sorts of rides. I took a camel from the faced to the Treasury for JOD 15 (2 people / 2 camels) and then a wild ride in a horse carriage up from the treasury to the entrance (JOD 15 / 2 people). You have to be prepared to negotiate but at least in the low season, they want the business.

The daytime Camel ride was sort of terrifying and thrilling, when it first rises you realize just how tall and strong camels are, and how small and breakable you are. Sit as close as you can to the front of the saddle where there is a horn to hold onto… and be ready to bounce.

The horse carriage is like an old Hollywood film featuring Roman chariots racing around the Colosseum – fighting each other. It’s an insanely fast ride through the canyons and people walking can often be seen leaping out of the way. We also hit the side of a cliff and another carriage which caused a few curses from my driver.

In other words – if you’re willing to spend a little, then getting back is an adventure. I probably did get a few bad looks from people – for riding, but after going through 21 cities this trip, climbing 2000’ft peaks in Faroe, and averaging about 15,000 steps a day, a carriage ride is too good to pass up.

Riding in the carriage, done with Petra for the day

Riding in the carriage, done with Petra for the day

Outside of Petra

Jordan was different than Israel – the people were nicer, less focused on ripping me off, and obviously, everything was cheaper. The shopkeepers were out to make a good deal for themselves, but I didn’t encounter any outright abuse or double pricing.

Avoid the restaurants around the Petra entrance, overpriced and under-delicious.. My hotel offered a fantastic buffet for 12 JOD, and at Petra Bubble, the dinner and breakfast are included. A note about hotel buffets – the drinks are NOT included, not even bottled water. So a beer (non-alcoholic, Sprite and Pelligrino) can add up to JOD 17. Rggg.

Sunburned

Around Petra and some shopping 😉

Petra Bubble Hotel

Set up in the mountains it feels very insanely remote. There’s absolutely nothing else around it, and they don’t serve alcohol (just non-alcoholic beer). The bubbles stay inflated because they have two doors – you need to close the first before opening the second to avoid the bubble starting to deflate.

The bubbles (24) are 3 connected bubbles per unit… A living area that faces out into the desert, a bedroom (that’s private), and a bathroom with shower. It’s exciting when you first arrive. And you’ll easily take hundreds of photos. There’s also a private jacuzzi hot tub on the deck of each unit. They empty and refill them in the morning and about 4 pm – 5 pm they’re steaming hot. They say you can use it again in the morning – but I found the water tepid – so best to get your hot tub experience in at night before the 10 pm cutoff.

Best hotub location ever.

At least two nights in the Bubble hotel, the rest closer to the Park entrance

Hello world. Love and hugs from Petra xo xo

Authentic? Maybe not… Cool? Very.

Whatever you think of Petra before going, the reality will exceed those imaginings. It’s a beautiful and remote treasure. Staying at one of the bubble hotels only adds to the otherworldly and delightful experience. Don’t miss it!