n a way, all of Okinawa was essentially the Maeda Escarpment/Hacksaw Ridge. when you look at WW2 photos nearly this whole small island was bombed, burnt, and converted into “a vast field of mud, lead, decay, and maggots“

Ninety percent of the buildings on the island were destroyed. The 82 day battle of Okinawa was one of the largest amphibious assault in the Pacific of WWll. They called it the “typhoon of steel” due to the intense fighting as one of the bloodiest in the Pacific with nearly 200,000 American and Japanese dead and 150,000 Okinawans. Roughly 1/3 to 1/2 of the island’s population was killed.

Okinawa, shaped by the war

“By the end of May, monsoon rains which had turned contested hills and roads into a morass exacerbated both the tactical and medical situations. The ground advance began to resemble a World War I battlefield, as troops became mired in mud, and flooded roads greatly inhibited evacuation of wounded to the rear. Troops lived on a field sodden by rain, part garbage dump, and part graveyard. Unburied Japanese and American bodies decayed, sank in the mud and became part of a noxious stew. Anyone sliding down the greasy slopes could easily find their pockets full of maggots at the end of the journey.” – Wikipedia

Hacksaw Ridge today

Hacksaw Ridge is an appropriate destination to focus on. Especially if you’ve watched the Hollywood film and been moved by the narrative of the conscientious objector – Desmond Doss who received the Medal of Honor for rescuing 75 men from the top of the ridge. My travel partner has a certain affinity to WW2 sites, and I was glad to watch the film and learn more about the history of the island and then visit the actual site.

Obviously, Japan downplays Hacksaw Ridge, there’s only a small plaque displaying text about the bravery of Doss. But doesn’t go into any further detail – Afterall, it was a defeat. Instead, they focus on the area being the site of the 14th century Urasoe Castle Runs -once the largest castle on Okinawa but just bare ruins today. What they’ve rebuilt in the last decade or so is difficult to get excited about as there are no known drawings or narratives to describe what the original castle looked like, just whatever they find during excavation.

Desmond Doss on top of the ridge in May, 1945

There were very few visitors the day I went, only one other couple, and they were asking for directions for the castle – unfortunately, they were already in the ruins, but didn’t even realize it.

Additionally, the spot the Doss plaque is located is not the exact location of the net the American came up the cliff, it’s 15 meters to the east by the staircase. It’s difficult to imagine how it must have looked during the war. Currently, it doesn’t seem that steep because of all the overgrowth. And even the ridge itself seems improbably small but from the historical photos, it must have been hell. There is a network of tunnels that you can look (but not go in) from the top. Additionally, there are several shrines and tombs around this location.

In the film, it appears the top is a large open landscape, the reality is it’s a tiny ridge you could walk across in less than 2 minutes. Hard to imagine how much blood was shed and lives lost to capture both this ridge and the island.

Jumping by the castle wall

3 types of pit vipers like to live in the caves, trees and tall grasses, so watch your step

Landing on the beach

Destruction near Shuri Castle

Reaching the ridge

The ridge is easily accessible by car rental and the ridge makes a quiet space to reflect on the nature of war, the death of young men (on both sides) that occurred here and the loss of all the innocent Okinawans, and the history of violence in general.

Many signs are warning of poisonous snakes, however, it’s the same grass that any park might have. I wonder if it’s not to scare tourists from digging around looking for war souvenirs. However, Okinawa is home to three types of extremely venomous pit vipers that are often found in caves, tree lines, etc – so maybe it’s best to heed them.

Self-drive is the easiest way to reach the ridge, plenty of free parking.

You can read more about the incredible Battle of Okinawa on Wikipedia.