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Trælanípa cliff

Brain bending and life ending Sørvágsvatn lake

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ørvágsvatn is a long lake (3.4-kilometers), and requires a long walk (2hr) followed by a tough hike to the top of Trælanípa (Slave Cliff) – a perpendicular rock wall, which juts 142 meters (466ft) upwards out of the sea. Getting to the top is equivalent to climbing a 43 story building, so don’t wear your Converse or stilettos. The reward at the top of Trælanípa is an unmarked (except a crushed grass and muddy) lookout point where you can catch your breath and finally enjoy the optical illusion of the lake that seemingly floats above the 40-meter (130 feet) tall cliff face that plunges straight into the Atlantic.

The optical illusion occurs because the top of Trælanípa is about 100 meters taller than the cliffs you’re looking down on. The lake sits in a depression and the hills rise around it. But forget the facts and figures, standing at the top of the cliff is probably one of the most beautiful sights I’ve ever seen. It feels like you’re standing on the moon.

Getting there, and back.

Once you’ve had your fill of the thrills of almost being blown off the top like a human kite, there are two ways back, the 1.5hr trek down the rocky little path full of fun jumps over streams or a 5.38-second fall to the rocks and waves below. ‘Slave Cliff’ earned its name in Viking age when unwanted slaves were marched to the top and thrown off. All-in-all, not a terrible death. If you had to choose between a heart attack in the laundry room or jumping over a 142-meter cliff – which would be a more exhilarating way to send you off into a trillion year sleep?

When I left the lake for the day I saw a group of girls hiking on foot from the closest village: Miðvágur, so I guess that’s possible. They arrived late in the afternoon and the guy that guards the path turned them away, so go early – you don’t want to be out on the cliffs at night. A far easier way is to rent a car – which you probs already want to do since the Faroe Islands is a road-trip-dream. You can slide right into the parking lot, pay your hefty trekking fee and get out in the peat fields with the sheep and bovine that quietly shuffle along, ignore you and feed there.

Since you can get to just about anywhere in the Faroe Islands in under a half day. A good jumping-off point would either be Bøur, or Tórshavn. Always a good idea to not preplan too much, and let the weather be the deciding factor.

Hint: you can’t ride the sheep up the cliff, god knows I tried but those sheep are awful smart, and the second you get near them they hobble away, quick!

Huddled and still freezing, making my way along the lake

Lot’s of small streams to jump over, or get your feet wet

Taking a rest at the halfway point

Otherworldly landscape

One of the many stingy (but cute) sheep that wouldn’t give me a ride up the cliff

Thanks, Instagram!

Sørvágsvatn Lake must be one of the top draws of Faroe. In summer, or any other season other than the dead of winter you can expect a lot of company on the path, and waiting your turn to take the iconic photos from the top of the cliff.

However, since I went on a miserably cold winter day – snow in the morning and a bitter, biting wind the rest of the day I had the entire cliff to myself. There was one other hiker but she was far ahead and we only met up at the halfway point, and on my return. It’s amazing to have it all to yourself!

I thought I was prepared for the cold with a full fleece base layer, two shirts, a down jacket, gloves, two scarfs, and a thick hat. But in the end, I had to wrap myself up in a comforter I borrowed from my warm bed in the Airbnb… The wind is truly intense the closer you get to the sea, and nowhere along the path offers respite.

Did I mention the trek costs money? More and more hikes in the Faroe Islands are now charging. At first, this doesn’t make a lot of sense – till you realize it’s all private land, the owners don’t have to let you cross it at all. On this particular path, the landowner uses the fees to keep up the path; Along the walk, you’ll notice numerous places workers did some damned hard work to shore up the sides and keep it safe. There’s also a clean bathroom, warm cabin, and a guy staffed all day in case of an emergency at the start of the path. He had warm coats on offer and a hot cup of tea on the way back. So, I really couldn’t complain about the fee. It beats the ‘free’ days when people were leaving garbage and feces along the path.

Just amazingly beautiful

This is the view your legs suffered for 😉

A gap in the cliffs

The hiking trail is too heavy to take with you

Back in the safety of the lodge

7. Tips

A few quick tips for Sørvágsvatn

Forget your perfect instagram outfit, and just wear what's practical for the weather...

It's so difficult to do, but put down the camera and just look at the view with your eyes for awhile

If you're not used to hiking, take it slow - the cliff will wait for you

Start early in the day, and don't try to sneak around the payment guy - could be awkward

If the trek up isn’t enough, you can also take an optional longer route toward the sea to view Bøsdalafoss waterfall, the point at which the lakewater cascades over a smaller (30 meter) cliff into the sea. I declined as my legs had turned to Filipina jelly.

Enjoy the hike!

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