small bar, as most of the best bars, are. L’Escamoteur (French: magician) a portal out of the wonderland that is Kyoto nightlife into another moodier wonderland of whimsical 1900’s France, steampunk, magic and top-hat wearing bartenders. Exotic is not the right term, it borders on the edge of erotic with drinks infused with smoked herbs beneath bell jars, a swing set off in the corner, and a bathroom that can only be accessed through a hidden bookcase.
“L’Escamoteur thus manages to transport its guests into a setting that’s equal parts magic shop, laboratory, and old-time apothecary.” – Christophe Rossi
Sleight of hand
Overlooking on the Takase canal this brick building doesn’t try to hide, but elegantly disappears into the surrounding neighborhood. When you discover the entrance you’re greeted by a narrow staircase with two Edison bulbs on the sides of each tread. At the top, you’ll find a vintage leather Chesterfield bolted to the ceiling and more steampunk scattered through this small bar than you can handle. Sometimes these bars can be overkill like the theme vomited all over the venue. But in L’Escamoteur the décor is elevated to art. If the space is full (and it often is) you’ll be told to try again later – however, there’s narrow corridor of standing room overlooking the stairs, if you’re patient (and nice) to the staff you’ll eventually be able to carry your drink over to a seat at the bar where the action happens.
While not strictly a speakeasy as it’s not hidden it’s more of an expose, curiosity, or spectacle. A traditionalist might expect a quiet, serious bar where the bartenders dutifully hand chop your blocks of ice and then slide it to you with a nod. This bar is not traditional, who wants traditional anyway? You come to this bar to have fun, sip some excellent cocktails by a brilliant mischievous mixologist with handlebar mustaches – and to be entertained. They present your drink with a certain devilish flourish like they just pulled an elephant out of a hat.
Some of the drinks have flames, others you sip the alcohol through a glass straw as it evaporates, and still, others just melt on your tongue. I’ve been to speakeasies all over the planet and this bar is my fave.
The magician at work – Marseillaise Christophe Rossi
L’Escamoteur
A great bartender focused on her work
Happy with cocktails
Pouring fire…
Sleep and drink or drink and sleep?
When I first arrived in Kyoto I thought the city, architecture and Geisha culture would be the center of my focus, drinking with Sumo wrestlers at bars, waving at Maiko as they wandered the streets with their red umbrellas, petting little Japanese dragons as people walked them on leashes. Instead, it became a trip about nightlife because it’s so abundant, unusual, rich… Sleeping all day left little time to see all the sights I had planned (hint: sadly there are no Japanese dragons). On average I’d wake up at 3 pm each day and had to rush to see a few things before the temples started to close – it was worth it.
They’re opening another bar in Miami, probably smart however I wish everything would stay exactly how it was the nights I was in attendance. It’s one of the few places I’d rather never change. If I could have the same night, night-after-night – life would be beautiful.
Vaping alcohol
