few upscale neighborhoods (Forbes Park, Bel-Air, Urdaneta and Dasmarinas Village, Corinthian Gardens and Greenhills surrounded by an almost endless spread of shanty towns and slums that exist underneath the shadow of gleaming new malls. This chaotic metropolis with unbelievably congested traffic is painfully pulling itself slowly out of poverty into a better tomorrow.

Most cities are more about the sights, the hotels are secondary. In Manila, I often care more about the hotel as they act as all-inclusive resorts that you make occasional forays out from – into the chaotic, polluted streets, then return into the cocoon of the hotel.

1. Things to see

Except for the Fort and cemeteries, Manila doesn’t have many traditional tourist sights – instead, it has islands of upscale malls you can get a Grab taxi and move from one to the next. Or it acts as a base for exploring more beautiful places like Boracay and Palawan.

Peninsula balcony

Peninsula pool

Jellyfish bar and IM Hotel pool

View from the top

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Raffles mirror

Around town

Fairmont pool

2. Nightlife

Burgos Street, Revel at the Palace, Valkyrie, Pure Vida, there are several upscale clubs and red-light areas full of small bars to enjoy some drinks and dancing. The area around Burgos once-notorious is slowly being gentrified into a series of smaller boutique bars that have a lot of artistic character.

A view of Metro Manila at night from atop IM hotels Jellyfish bar (Antidote) will give you a whole new perspective on how big Manila is, and how many skyscrapers. It looks like you could be looking at Bangkok, Singapore or any other big city.

Buddha Bar and The Long Bar

3. Spend

In Manila, you can shop, shop and shop some more. Almost every international brand is available and more are showing up each year.

Shop till you drop

4. Food

Buddha-Bar is still our favorite, almost always empty and yet full of great food and drinks in a dark and decadent atmosphere with a giant Buddha serenely looking over you. This place is right in the CBD and always a stopping point in the evening when I’m. in Manila to get yet another visa. But, how long can it last? I’ve never seen more than 20 people in it, even on a weekend.

The Filling Station is a retro American themed restaurant on Burgos that has a full comfort food menu of both American and Filipino options. Mango and banana milkshakes, burgers, pizza, adobo – The filling station is open 24hr and has it all. It’s full of American kitsch – statues of Superman, Wonderwoman, Elvis, records, jukeboxes and old dial phones. This is always a favorite for calories.

Manila sweets

More foods

5. Getting Around

Grab is the best bet. Although sometimes it’s hard to get one when you need it. If you’re at the mall you might face very long waits to get back to your hotel if you just sit idly at a taxi stand. If you’re headed to the provinces you probably have your list of numbers to the car and van services. Beware they charge double price here – once to come to pick you up in Manila and once to get you back to the province – so taxis here are expensive compared to places like Bangkok.

Traffic is still a nightmare, it can take an hour or more to get from the Burgos area to EDSA. You either need to leave early or just lose your expectations on showing up on time. If Manila could fix its traffic problem it would become a whole new city.

6. Costs

The hotels can be had for good deals from time to time, you just have to keep a watch. Loyalty programs pay off, offering discounts, late checkouts, and early check-ins. Of course, any Filipina knows how to eat cheaply in Manila, or you can splurge at some of the nicer restaurants and hotel buffets.

7. Hotels

A few of our favorite hotels include:

• The Fairmont (which is connected to Raffles), good rooms if your overlooking the pool
• Shangri-la: a good buffet
• The Peninsula: close to everything, nice restaurants, but we got bedbugs there once!
• IM Hotel – A novelty and cheaper option with a glass pool where you can see the street below and beautiful views from the roof bar

8. Tips

Manila is growing, and getting better. Slowly. But, it will surely get there.