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Bathe in warm human vats surrounded by Neo-baroque splendor. Szechenyi Baths

W

e typically bathe alone, maybe when you were little you bathed with your siblings. However, Szechenyi allows you to bathe with hundreds of strangers (thousands?) in an open-air setting in a beautiful Neo-baroque palace. The experience is both exotic and romantic, especially if you stay until nighttime.

I’ll admit, at times, sitting in a hot pool with a couple of hundred other people, I couldn’t help feeling a little germaphobic at times, the pools didn’t smell very chlorinated and it felt like we were all in a big petri dish of human bacteria. It was beautiful but unnerving. I got some water in my mouth once, that’s an experience you will go far out of your way to assure only happens a single time. 

1. Things to see

Built in 1913, there are an incredible 18 pools, 10 saunas, several massage stations, facial options, etc. Bathing has been in the culture for centuries, starting with the Romans who built the first baths, followed by the Turkish occupiers who revived the Turkish bath culture in Budapest. Now they focus on the medical and aqua therapies as well as inexpensive ways to enjoy a unique experience in the city.

You check-in at the downstairs counter, get a wristband that unlocks a private changing cabin. Just big enough for two people, you can undress, get into your swim-gear (no nude bathing here!) and store your things. Even the changing rooms are beautiful with hardwood doors, inlaid tiles on the floor and old school paneled windows that overlook the bathing pools in the halls. The feeling is a cross between a sanitorium and sanitarium. This is not the building you’d want to be trapped in during a zombie apocalypse. Once you have your towel you’re free to wander around all the pools, most likely looking for a seat. If it’s busy you might have to stand or use one of the benches until a proper lounge chair opens up.

I was there when it wasn’t too cold, but I’ve read if you go in winter with snow on the ground that it’s amazing to sit in the hot waters and watch the steam rise with all the snow around you. I’m envious!

The palace wasn’t converted into a bathhouse but built specifically for it. It’s just the right amount of run-down without actually being dirty. Faded, old-school, historical.

Your wrist band which gets you access to your cabin unfortunately doesn’t allow you to buy food or drinks, so you’ll have to somehow carry some money on you or keep returning to you cabin throughout the day.

You’re also allowed to photograph as much as you like, anywhere on the grounds, you could do an amazing photoshoot if the light and weather cooperated.

Entrance hall, looking down from balcony

Right side of main baths

Inside, cabins and left side of main bathing area

Front

Red bench

Posing, photos are allowed almost everywhere

More from the baths

Steps

2. Costs & Details

Overall an inexpensive way to spend an afternoon and evening. A rough rate was around 20 euro for an all-day stay with a cabin.

3. Tips

Whatever you expect coming here, you will be blown away when you see it. One of the few places that exceed your imagination.

Rent a cabin, not a locker. The cabins are unique and can be fun for a couple.

Don’t expect fine dining, the food on offer is more akin to carnival fare - hot dogs, etc

The palace is right on the park, so after you're done you can wander through the park for a bit

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It’s one of those places that when you leave you’ll swear you “MUST go back to before leaving Budapest,” but then somehow wind up never getting back to. Sometimes leaving a city still wanting more experience is a good thing. Or sometimes, trying to recreate an already good experience is a bad thing.

Reviews
4.25
Easy to get to
Fun
Inexpensive
Photogenic
Summary
Fantastic open-air bathing in a beautiful Neo-baroque palace.

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